I don’t believe in “perfect 10s” or five-star ratings. The attainment of the ideal is antithetical to my role as a critic — if I can’t find fault, do I have a job? — and anti-climactic to my life as a seeker — if I can’t find better, do I have a purpose? I’ve always feared finding the best must dictate the end of the quest. Well, I’m about to find out, for now, I will bestow an absolute superlative: Chris Porter of A La Mode has crafted a Key Lime Pie without equal, without flaw.
Key lime pie is a highwire act, the baker must gingerly walk the divide between tart and sweet, solid and smooth. Defying physics and phobias, Porter channels Phillipe Petit, balancing a crunchy, crumb crust with a delectable curd, slightly sweet whipped cream with twisted, candied lime wedges that serve as an aesthetic and gastronomic flourish, allowing this key lime pie to cross over from dessert to literal manna. This is not a matter of taste, it’s not even question of faith, A La Mode’s Key Lime Pie is simply proof of the existence of the divine. Bless you, Chris Porter.